rich_f Wrote:Matsushima near Sendai is another one... it's okay. A little too touristy for my taste.)
Have you considered visiting once more? While, yes, it's touristy, that still doesn't discredit the beauty and historical importance of the area.
At the ryokan I stayed at, it was possible to watch the sunrise over the bay from within the onsen. Basho wrote a poem about this view that more or less expresses his speechlessness upon seeing it. Watching the sunrise at Matsushima is comparable to when I saw the sunrise at the base of Mt. Fuji. Unforgettable.
While the big temple in Matsushima is kind of sterile, the walkway leading up to the temple is sheer beauty. There are a bunch of caves surrounding by pines trees on the path. The caves were used as shelter during the bombing in WWII, and there are also several ancient statues positioned inside of the caves.
Even though the temple is probably the most touristy place in town, I had a great experience at the teahouse on the temple grounds. I had a cup of matcha and some sweets in the very traditional building, which had a thatched roof and only natural lighting.
Plus, there are more remote areas that avoid the tourist crowd. I went to a restaurant serving 懐石料理 that was located on a cliff overlooking the Matsushima bay. There were only a few other people there, and the dining experience had that intimate, mindful, and understated atmosphere that I love so much about traditional Japanese meals. Oh, and we saw a white owl outside of the window while we were dining, which is considered good luck!
Even in the tourist area with all the shops selling souvenirs, I had some hojicha and some roasted snacks at one of those places where there's a fire in a pit customers can use to cook things (I can't remember the word!). The atmosphere was very calm and quiet, which was perfect for the cold winter morning.
I think Matsushima is a fine place to visit. Maybe you'll have a similar opinion if you ever decide to return