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I think the seating just depends on what style they're going for. In Tokyo I haven't seen the floor seating that much. There's sometimes a choice though.
My friend on visiting izakaya in Tokyo: "The Japanese places in London are more Japanese than here."
Me: "...."
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Everyone is supposed to do it. Men can get often away with sitting improperly, but women are held to a higher standard.
Then again, no one expects foreigners to be able to do it since it's very hard even for most Japanese people to sit seiza for very long.
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And men, right? I don't think I've ever seen a woman sitting cross-legged. Men do it all the time but I think it's considered pretty crude if a woman were to do it.
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@Mcjon: of course many people don't bother, but it's still considered somewhat rude, especially if you don't at least start out in seiza for a few minutes. It's like having your elbows on the table.
I had a nomikai with my coworkers last Friday and the three women in the group sat seiza the entire time we were there (~4 hours). I only bother with seiza when in formal settings or when eating from shared dishes, since I find it easier to eat and reach with the elevation seiza gives you (especially useful for nabe).
Edited: 2010-07-14, 10:29 am
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Sounds like this is your first time to Japan Icecream? I didn't realize you were a girl.
Out of curiosity, do you find your self massively under dressed when out and about compared to Japanese girls? And have you noticed that EVERYONE wears skirts here (even some guys are now...)? I'm going to miss that when I go back =(.
And ya, this rain blows, I'm in Osaka so I understand your predicament well.
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Haha. I wonder if I have any hot Japanese male friends? I know a guy that's recently single and people say he's cute... but, actually, I'm also friends with the girl he recently broke up with, so I'm not sure I should be setting him up with people or she'll get angry, haha. He does seem to like foreign women.
Actually, one of my favorite bars is Ishimaru Shoten, a small place on Kiyamachi that plays a lot of gypsy jazz, and it's one of my favorites for meeting Japanese people. Girls say the bartender is hot, haha. He's got kinda a long hair thing going on. Last I checked he was single! He also barely speaks a word of English, but seems to like talking to foreigners, so he's a good guy to hang around.
Even were I a woman, and were I attracted to him, I'm not sure I'd date a bartender, haha.
I seem to actually temporarily be cut off from the city. I live technically in the city, but there's no train station in the north part where I live so I drive in. But, there was a landslide due to the rain last night, so I can't take that road into the city. The problem is that the only other roads into the city from up here are from Sonobe or Kameoka: meaning, what normally is a short trip has now turned into a two hour trip. It's about an hour to Sonobe, and then an hour on the highway into Kyoto.
Sources tell me that it will take almost a month to fix the road, it's pretty crappy. I'm moving in two weeks, so I don't have to wait quite that long, but until then I guess I'll barely be able to go into the city. I might take the trek out for the Gion Matsuri this weekend, not sure yet. I went last year, so I could take it or leave it, haha.
So, in short, I'm not around tonight! I should have phrased it thus: if you ever want a drinking buddy, two weeks from now, let me know.
Edited: 2010-07-15, 5:34 am
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There's a really cool place called A's Bar that I'm unable to give you directions to... it's kind of near San-jo. It's really good for meeting people cos it just has 3 big tables, so everyone has to sit together. I met a hot guy there once, too - I was quite into him until his friend told me that he was married, and he said "but it's ok, my wife's visiting her family in Kagoshima."
It's also worth checking out the Irish Pubs, I like field. I think people in "foreign" bars are a little more open to talking to foreigners.
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Note that, a lot of bars, including the one I just mentioned, are really hard to find on your own! There are SO many in that area, and a lot of them won't show up on google maps or anything like that.
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I've heard that, "with enough practice", one can get to the point where one can sit seiza basically indefinitely. This never made any physiological sense to me. The problem for me is mostly a matter of reduced circulation, and it's hard for me to envision a plausible physiological adaptation (from a lot of seiza sitting "practice") that would eliminate this problem.
BTW, I did a very quick search to see if the prevalence of "deep vein thrombosis" was higher in Japan than elsewhere. The practice of seiza (it seems to me) would increase the risk of it considerably, but I did not find anything. Pretty surprising. Maybe there's something to this idea of "seiza practice", even though it still does not make any sense to me.
Edited: 2010-07-15, 6:49 am
Pigs and Whistles just east of Kamogawa river on Sanjou is fun. Though I haven't been there in a while. It's a half Japanese/ half foreigners from Kyoto University crowd. Did you enjoy Gion Matsuri?
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Gion, btw, is one of the best places ever. Been there twice.