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For me, the best books about Japan have been non-fiction narratives of some particular corner of Japanese life. Ones I've liked, just off the top of my head:
• Geisha by Liza Dalby. Participant/observer ethnographic study published in pre geisha-fad 1998.
• The previously mentioned Angry White Pyjamas by Robert Twigger. Interesting and enjoyable read despite my complete lack of interest in martial arts.
• Underground: The Tokyo Gas Attack and the Japanese Psyche by novelist Haruki Murakami. Collection of narratives by victims and perps.
• A Man with No Talents by Oyama Shiro (pseudonym). Written by a former salaryman who dropped out to stay in flop houses and eke out a living as a day laborer. On a lark he submitted this, his journal, to a literary contest and won, although he refused to appear to accept the prize.
• Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World by Theodore Bestor. Harvard professor's decades-long study of the complex social institutions that culminate in the guide-book staple. Dense, but engagingly written.
• Untangling My Chopsticks by Victoria Riccardi. Despite the lame title, a good read about a woman's year as a food (tea kaiseki!) apprentice in Kyoto.
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re:matthewmuller
You can also read "Japan: A Reinterpretation" by Patrick Smith to see someone who thoroughly hates Reischauer for good reasons iirc, but that book warped my views of Japan pretty bad; or rather should I say that it gave me some very inconvenient ideas that needed to be discarded when I got here?
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The books that made the most impact on me have been:
Haruki Murakami 'Underground: The Tokyo Gas Attack and the Japanese Psyche'; especially why he wrote it (claim that Japanese would not discuss the tragic incident). I've tried reading Murakami's fiction but didn't enjoy it so cannot recommend other titles.
Amelie Nothomb 'Fear and Trembling'; vituperative and comic nightmare of a Belgian author's year working at the Yumimoto Corp and although fictionalised I doubt much is exaggerated. She went from photocopying needless piles of paper to scrubbing toilets.
Roger Davies and Osamu Ikeno (eds) 'The Japanese Mind'; is a textbook series of chapters arranged around concepts (eg aimai, amakudari, chinmoku etc) and grazes lightly over each without detailed analysis; fine (and not overly expensive) if you want a broad intro with some secondary literature suggestions to dive deeper.
Christopher Benfey 'The Great Wave: Gilded Age Misfits, Japanese Eccentrics, and the Opening of Old Japan'; entertaining and eclectic account of diverse intellectuals and eccentrics looking to each others' cultures for inspiration; I liked the chapter about Melville a lot.
Takuan Soho 'Unfettered Mind - Writings from a Master to a Master Swordsman'; book is translation of three letters written by Takuan to Yagyu Munenori; if you study Japanese martial arts and especially kobudo or kenjutsu techniques this is indispensable; cf 'The Sword and the Mind' (by Yagyu Munenori) which is also excellent; although no expert and although I've not read the originals in Japanese both these books continue to inspire me.
Karl F Friday 'Legacies of the Sword: The Kashima-Shinryu and Samurai Martial Culture'; very academic and detailed account of samurai culture and especially the origin and role of the Kashima Shinryu koryu along with descriptions of some of its principal techniques and proponents.
Kakuzo Okakura 'The Book of Tea' (1906); reads a bit clumsily at times (the whole East vs West stuff) and occasionally eulogises 'teaism' at the expense of readability but I do often go back to this book and am convinced Heidegger drew more from it (in formulating 'Dasein') than he could ever admit.
The one book I have violent allergic reactions to is Inazo Nitobe's 'Bushido The Soul of Japan', every page of which seems to try equating 'Bushido' with chivalric/ancient Greek/Christian codes of behaviour. I see it as a dated 'product of the (Meiji) times', but others seem to find a lot of value in it and it was nothing if not hugely influential. If only writings by writers and Shinto theorists like Ashizu Uzuhiko 葦津珍彦 (1909-1992) were being published.
Oh, speaking of Shinto, don't go past 'The Essence of Shinto: Japan's Spiritual Heart' by Motohisa Yamakage. It isn't a 'how to' guide but gives a well-informed (if partial) account of basic tenets and concepts.
Second the recommendations for Alex Kerr, Alan Booth and Will Ferguson.
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I learned about the Japanese from that show Chuck! The manager of the Buy More was telling the employees to be more like the Japanese: "The Japanese have 137 words for 'yes', but not a single word for 'no'."
Edited: 2010-01-15, 3:44 am
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Dogs and Demons by Alex Kerr
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Books in Japanese about your home country. They'll teach you to take the genre with a suitable quantity of salt.
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re: coverup
I'll look that one up. A book that gave me some inconvenient ideas about Japan was The Enigma of Japanese Power by Karel van Wolfren.http://www.amazon.com/Enigma-Japanese-Power-Politics-Stateless/dp/0679728023 (How do I make a hyperlink?) This was back in the late 80's early 90's when Japan as #1 was a big hit, and everybody thought that the Japanese were going to buy the world. I had previously thought of Japan as an idyllic cooperative paradise, and van Wolfren's book showed me lots of negative sides to Japan's 'economic miracle' that I took too seriously for a while and really made me no fun at the 居酒屋.
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Speaking (writing!) for myself, I don't look for cultural books with the hope of finding out anything about the 'essential Japan.' My preference, since I am not an academic or preparing to teach others about Japan, is always going to be for books that deepen my appreciation for Japan and further my interest in the country and its people in an entertaining way. Here are examples of books that worked for me:
Oliver Statler, Japanese Inn (he also wrote a very good book about a series of visits to 88 temples called "Japanese Pilgrimage")
Robert Whiting, Tokyo Underworld
Pico Iyer, The Lady and the Monk
Kenzaburo Oe, A Personal Matter
Alex Kerr, Angels and Demons
Kazuki Sekida, Zen Training
David Chadwick, Crooked Cucumber
James Heisig (the very one!), Philosophers of Nothingness
Ian Reader, Shinto
Richard Seager, Encountering the Dharma (about the controversial Soka Gakkai)
None of these books will give you any special insights into the Japanese (indeed, eight of them are by non-Japanese) but all of them are great reads. Also, a few of them are only tangentially about Japan. For example, "Crooked Cucumber" is the biography of an
American zen teacher. Nevertheless, it is quite good on what it was like to grow up in Japan before World War Two and how the war affected life for the Japanese people. Similarly, the Seager book is an unusually sympathetic portrait of the Soka Gakkai branch of Nichiren by an American academic: it gives a pretty good description of the movement's history and, in the process, says quite a bit about Japan in the early to mid-twentieth century.
I should caution you that Kerr's book is quite negative.
My interests are philosophy and religion, so you will find more than a few items on the list boring if you don't share these interests. And this leads me to my last impression. I think the best way to enjoy Japan is to find a niche and explore: whenever I visit, I like to go to shrines and temples. Needless to write, this forum is an example of this principle.
Edited: 2010-12-26, 12:22 pm
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Another great book, mentioned by chorismos above, is "Underground," by Haruki Murakami. This was a fascinating read, not least because of my surprise at Murakami's approach. I enjoy his novels but find them occasionally cloying. While Murakami's style is familiar, he has clearly chosen to stay out of the way and let the victims and witnesses tell their own stories. The result exhibits a deep humanity I hadn't suspected in that compulsively post-modernist author.
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Japan at War: An Oral History is a fascinating read.
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Dang! bluemarigolds made me think of another winner: "Embracing Defeat," by John Dower.
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YOu are absolutely right, pm215. Sorry for the mix-up! Believe it or not, my first thought upon awakening this morning was "Did I write "dogs and demons" or "angels and demons"? My daughter, however, would say "what's the difference, Dad? all dogs ARE angels! when are you going to buy me a puppy?"
I agree that we need to take the bad with the good. And the book is occasionally funny: I just re-read his story of Madame Nui and her remarkable toad.