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This particular dilemma, and incidentally, the social debate du jour of feminism and identity politics, can make you feel a little self-conscious.
I see more examples of this behavior in Kanto and Tohoku, and a lot less when I lived in or visit Ryukyu and Okinawa. In the latter, I put my money in the convenience store clerk's hand, people walk past me on the sidewalk, I practice Japanese with the cab driver I've never met before, everyone's guard is down.
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For the record, Afterglowefx isn't really in culture shock. I came straight out of living in a tent in Africa for a year, Japan is easy-mode.
But you can't really argue that the "never talk to people you don't know" attitude here isn't stronger than most other places in the world (been lucky enough to see a few), nor that it isn't dehumanizing in a lot of ways (for Japanese as well).
I've been here two years, I'm finally able to communicate in the language, I'm not especially bothered anymore. I don't go into auto-road-rage when I drive anymore, I don't care about the staring, I don't care about the petty racism, etc etc. If Japan wasn't a cool place I wouldn't be here.
But that doesn't mean it's problem free. I didn't mean to come off like I was the cynical one--I was only highlighting how socially awful Japanese can be, and how you shouldn't let that rub off on you. It doesn't make me feel bad, although it must be difficult for Japanese who've never been anywhere else and think this is the way that the world works. I might be cynical then.
I forget who mentioned it, but I will agree at least that the way this plays out on public transportation is--in once facet--nice. While I might not be striking up any conversations anytime soon, at least nobody's going to be super-disturbing either.
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It doesn't really bother me too much (perhaps I've just gotten accustomed to it) but you guys in Tokyo really ought to cut country-kids more slack. We do get petty racism on a daily basis, and we're not making it up. People do stare, all the time, sometimes with hostility. I've had people yell shit at me in my car. I've had people cross the street in front of me and re-cross behind me. I've had people immediately get up off the train, or purposefully go stand somewhere else. Not unusual at all to hear whispers of 「外人!外人がいる!」 from grown adults as I walk past in the supermarket.
I've gotten full on racism more than once. I've been halfway through the application process for an apartment before being told they couldn't rent to us because I was foreign. My girlfriend was left stunned and crying after that one. I've been denied entry to a restaurant in Hokkaido: no, no, sorry, full ... customers in front of me went in, customers after me went in, the place was huge. Was in a minor car accident in Kyuushuu (10km/hour), police spent two hours yelling at me, a friend of mine, and my girlfriend--he insisted that foreigners should not drive in Japan, ever, and that non-Japanese are incapable of understanding Japanese rules (the funny part is that the accident was caused by somebody parking in the middle of the road talking on their cell phone).
The minor stuff is daily. That doesn't mean that it isn't answered at the other end of the spectrum with amazing acts of kindness. There's also a lot of positive racism too: for many people I'm not cool because of my awesome sense of humor but because I just so happen to be American. But to claim that anybody experiencing racism is just making it up is insane.
Annnd somehow this has become a Japan griping thread.
Edited: 2014-03-09, 8:24 pm
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Thanks for your thoughts, everyone! I have a few points I'd like to mention:
1. I actually love how Japanese people don't randomly accost you. I think it's one of the reasons I'm having trouble acting differently although I'm back in the US. These very Japanese thoughts keep intruding into my head. For instance, I'm much more likely now to wish that the person exchanging pleasantries with the staff would just focus on finishing their business so other customers can be helped. In fact, I find myself whispering 迷惑な人 in the back of my mind. Likewise, I get irritated when a server constantly pesters me with "How's everything?" and just wish I could enjoy my meal without interruption. Prior to having lived in Japan, I was rarely bothered by these kinds of behavior, but now I'm hyper-aware of them. Since I think this way now, I tend to monitor my behavior so as to not be a nuisance, like how I would in Japan. As noted earlier, I should change this since I'm in the US now and the norms here are different.
2. By accepting Japanese culture, I've been able to have relationships I wouldn't have had otherwise. While I was an English teacher, several students confessed that they took my classes because I "understand Japanese people" (日本人の心が分かる・以心伝心・等). I've been to many nomikai where I was the only foreigner, even though the Japanese present had plenty of foreign friends. Therefore, I don't think playing up one's foreign appeal is the only way to make friends. Although, perhaps my success is related to my next point.
3. Although I'm American, I'm genetically half-Asian (Filipino and Chinese) and half-white (German and Italian), but I look Asian and am fashion-conscious. While in Japan, most Japanese people first speak to me in Japanese unless they already know I'm American. Japanese people often have double-takes and ask me whether I'm Japanese. One of my former colleagues even once asked me, "Why do you look like... you know ... one of us...?" At any rate, my point is that I blend in and have very rarely felt like the target of micro-aggressions from strangers (although I certainly have experienced what I'd consider discrimination).
4. The type of cynicism I have in mind isn't the result of a reaction to Japanese culture, but of adapting to it. I'm talking about the cynicism that comes from concepts like 迷惑・思いやり・わがまま・TPO・etc.
5. Speaking of 思いやり, I think it's related to why Japanese people first use English when communicating with foreigners. They don't think they're profiling or discriminating. In their heads, they're being thoughtful and considerate. Ironically, they're treating you in a very Japanese way. This is one of the most important differences I've noticed between Japan and the US. In Japan, it is considerate to make assumptions about someone and treat them accordingly. Someone who doesn't is a 思いやりのない人 or 鈍感 or 空気読めない. In the US, it's usually quite rude to make assumptions about someone and treat them otherwise, unless specifically told to do so.
Nonetheless, I don't get why anyone would be bothered when someone asks you a question like whether you eat hamburgers often after you mention you're American. After all, if I mentioned to another American that I live in the Boston area, I'd probably be asked something similar, like whether I go to a lot of Red Sox games or some other stereotypical Boston thing.
Edit: drdunlap, how can you be a prominent figure in the Japanese craft beer industry and drink *cautiously looks around and then whispers with hand in front of mouth* onecup? That's like the natty ice of sake. For shame! What next? Did you wash it down with a 発泡酒? Or perhaps you were a bit homesick and went for an adjunct lager?
Edited: 2014-03-10, 12:27 am
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I lived in Mie-ken in a city with no foreigners, so I understand it is quite different to Tokyo or the other major cities.
afterglowefx - in your case it probably isn't culture shock as such, it sounds to me like you just don't fit in particularly well. Though I think your understanding of what culture shock actually is is still incorrect -- it is not the initial difficulties of adjusting having just moved to a country. It takes affect usually a good 6 months later once you have a routine and have got used to most things, but you find a craving for home because all the little differences annoy you.
Anyway its pretty rude and bordering on offensive describing the Japanese way as "de-humanising". Its not, its just not what you are used to where Americans are on the other side of the spectrum. I prefer it the Japan way mostly, if I'm on a train or at a restaurant by myself or whatever, I usually *don't* want random people coming up to me making small talk. I'm usually doing something else or just taking a mental break, and I'm not interested in chatting about nothing to other people I don't know (and who I have no interest in). I've spent time in the US and, if anything, just found it annoying.
Neither country is "wrong", just both are different. You have a mindset that your way is the right way and theirs is the incorrect "de-humanising" way. and its not. You have it wrong, not everyone else.
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I fit in fine (or as well as a foreigner can, anyway). I'm not bitter or upset. It's an aspect of the system here I don't see as optimal for me personally, I'm not in the business of judging this or that to be wrong for everyone. How could I make that claim? By no means does my opinion hold universal moral worth.
As to somehow being racist in describing Japan as de-humanizing, I'm not being controversial. Cities are widely regarded as so, and Japan is more urbanized than most places on Earth (Tokyo being the largest metropolitan area on Earth). Combine that with some other uniquely Japanese cultural habits and that tendency is magnified: the work ethic, concepts of social harmony and personal sacrifice, the organization of social spaces, the attitude that approaching any stranger whatsoever is troublesome for all involved.
You can tuck all this behind a cultural relativistic veneer and claim no harm done, but it's pretty plain for all to see. Hell I'm mostly voicing the complaints of Japanese friends, although I do happen to agree with them. Again, I'm not in the position to claim that this is wrong or needs to be changed. I personally don't see much worth in it, but that's a view for me and may not (or clearly doesn't) suit everyone.
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Sorry for butting in here without ever having lived in Japan, but this discussion resonated with me on a more fundamental level. In my personal experience, people in the West (specifically Western Europe) too often *require* if not outright *demand* personal openness (for lack of a better term) and easy-goingness from co-workers or service personnel. I have actually experienced being ordered to converse about my private life during my lunch break (yup, my *own* time...) by direct superiors. And during one performance interview (during a different job) I was informed that my vacation stories had been deemed insufficiently entertaining by at least one colleague... And frankly, that is going off the opposite deep end compared to Japan, I feel.
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When people saw me here in Japan, they'd always assume I'm some stereotypical Western guy. The reality is that I was a semi-hikikomori for most of the time I was in my birth country, I still don't know a single Westerner offline other than my immediate family back home and only a few people, I hardly know about Western music, I'm not interested in professional sports, despite my Japanese still being clumsy I'm better at expressing my emotions and personality in it than my native English and I feel like a foreigner every time I go back to my hometown now.
I eventually just decided to make my appearance the opposite of a typical western male (男の娘万歳) to reflect my real personality a bit better... I just got tired of being treated like an anthropology exhibit.
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Hmm. I've been the same here I've been in Germany. I'm just me. And yes, we do get quite an interesting mix of both negative and positive racism here, and that ドイツ人、いいなあ mixes just fine with クソ外人for my taste.
I AM a "huge, scary guy" (I'm not fat, but I'm much broader and taller than most people here, and I got a shaved head) actually, but that actually leads to people constantly telling me I'd look like Bruce Willis (don't think so) and girls shouting かっこいい when I wear a long coat in winter.
I don't care about the police officer asking わかりますか after every third word or the old lady looking scared when I look at HER, and when people compliment me on my usage of chopsticks, I compliment them on their Japanese and ask them where they learned it.
Part of why this country feels not that strange for me might be my nationality. Germans are more the reserved type in public, too. Actually, the staff in shops greeting me makes me think しつこいなあ more than it might Japanese people. I'm totally cool with being left alone.
When I DO want to talk with people, I do. And people do talk back. I made friends here, I get along with people, and it's all well. This here is not 田舎, but it's still a huge difference from Tokyo, so probably the right mix.
I think about moving to Yokohama in the future, which might make things even easier for me.
I'm me, the guy from Germany who now happens to live in Japan, and if people refer to me as "the foreigner", that's their problem, not mine. I actually have a name - but it's not the business of some 関係ない人. I'm totally happy with being close only with friends.
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People don't use English with you because they try to be good to you. They do because they know a little and find it fun to try it out.
Most are afraid of embarrassing themselves though.
It also depends heavily on how good your Japanese is.
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I absolutely start out in English, if I encounter Black people or Asians (lots of Africans, Chinese and Arabs around here). Second choice is generally French.
Those kinds of encounters don't happen much these days, but they did all the time when I worked in the service industry, during college. And yes, I did it partially to show off. But mostly because I expected that it gave them the best chance to understand what I was saying, and that was my job. Not to assume that they were my countrymen, even though there was at most a 1% chance of that, but to assist them as fast as possible.
And whether I spoke the language or not, I would be happy if someone spoke English to me in an Asian country. I'd look at it as a kind gesture, of someone trying to be helpful, not as "racism".
Edited: 2014-03-12, 10:21 am
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I lived for two years in Tokyo and two years in Tochigi, so I agree with those who are saying there's a big difference in how you're treated. It's not like I had hordes of kids throwing rocks at me in Tochigi, but the "omg a gaijin!" attitude was much more prevalent there. (Although apartment discrimination happens everywhere.)
Sometimes you have to take what you see on the Internet with a grain of salt. Online forums may be the only place someone can vent steam about the things that annoy them in Japan, and that doesn't mean they hate Japan.
RE: Culture shock, virtually everyone who goes to Japan will experience it to some degree. It's not a sign of weakness and has nothing to do with your interest in Japan or dedication.
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Not cynical. Even more positive.
The people who have trouble meeting people here need to look inside for the problems as to why.