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There are a lot of tricky parts of the grammar; the simplicity is a bit deceptive. But the hardest parts of Japanese by far are the writing system, and the politeness. Both of those are lifetime issues that you will never completely master as long as you study.
It's not easy, nor is it nearly-impossible. Somewhere in between.
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Well I think the writing systems are really easy once you get used to the kanji. For example, knowing how to break the kanji into parts, usually they even help you with the meaning of the overall kanji (Hesig helps with this). It took me awhile to figure out how on and kun yomi worked (about 3 months). After that, learning vocabulary became easy.
Grammar? Hard? No not really, it's different though.
Japanese is certainly is unique. Once you go through the basic grammar, I thought it got easy. When reading native material you will know when it's a grammar point you don't understand so you can just look it up online, or ask the people on forums.
Vocabulary? Easy, no cognates though. Kanji can be your best friend or enemy.
Katakana words are usually easier to learn because we can figure out what it sounds like in English most of the time.
Speaking
Never got to it yet, but my speaking is pretty bad. Reading scripts flow pretty well though. If I were to walk up to a Japanese person and talk, I probably can't get out of the basic conversation. If they start writing stuff down, I'll understand them to a certain extent. If subtitles pop out of nowhere, I'll understand them to a certain extent. Too bad there's no subtitles in real life.
Listening
Hard...for me. I studied Italian(in school), and my listening is outrageous. I just can't keep up. Heck, even in English I will have some trouble if some kid speaking super fast came up to me. Maybe I have to stop blasting Jpop in my ears. I suppose my listening is getting better. Well, it certainly is better than it was awhile back.
Overall
It's definitely time consuming. If you're having fun learning the language you won't even realize how fast time is going. I would get into listening right away when you start, well maybe after the kana. I started listening maybe a month after some regular study of grammar and words. When I got to listening...I almost raged quit the language. If you have passion towards the language, I'm sure you will do great! My studies of the Japanese language in 2 weeks or so beat my 6 years of Italian study in school.
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@dixmox To me the difficulty ranking goes the other way around. I started believing so after meeting so many illiterate people that were just better than me at speaking when I started frequenting volunteer Japanese classrooms, but didn't stand on a par with me when it came to reading or writing. Most of us started learning Japanese with grammar books, textbooks, iKnow, breaking subs, Anki, etc., whereas people that usually have better conversational skills than reading/writing skills (in my experience) like Vietnamese, Indonesian, Brazilian, Filipino, etc., usually come to Japan in different terms than most native English speakers and start learning from day one speaking to their supervisors/co-workers, going to volunteer classrooms, speaking to other language learners, etc.
Edited: 2013-09-22, 8:01 pm
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^ Lol. Truer words have never been spoken until now.
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To take a step back and view the bigger picture, I think one big difficulty in Japanese is just that it takes so damn long to really get good at. Of course, that's due to a lot of smaller difficulties that add up. But having enough free time in your life, and having enough motivation to continue on, are both very difficult things to be consistent about. If you live in Japan it's kind of easy since you always have a reason to keep learning, but if you're in another country it really takes a lot of internal motivation.
I've said before that I think it takes most people five years or more to pass JLPT N1, and that's a level that still feels a bit unsatisfying when you finally get there.
Another difficulty is that even if you live in Japan you may not actually get as many chances to use the language as you would like. That's because of social customs in Japan, how Japanese people treat foreigners, and the fact that most Westerners who come to Japan do English teaching jobs. You need to put in an effort to try to speak as much Japanese as possible even if you live in Japan. It does not just happen, and it's actually kind of difficult at first.
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My main thought was that if you can express yourself intelligently in live speech then you should be able to do it in text (as long as you have knowledge of kanji) since you have all the time in the world to think about it, in which case there's far less clues to give away that you're not really perfect yet. Donald Keene makes for a good example. But I guess this goes for any language.
I just see the writing system as a matter of memorization, not so much a complex cognitive challenge.
Edited: 2013-09-22, 9:57 pm
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What I'm saying is that factually, speaking vs writing Japanese may be the other way around according to what you said in terms of difficulty even though, like you, I see writing and composing far easier that speaking since that's how I went on learning Japanese myself as well.
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Japanese is damn hard.
My grandfather once wanted to learn it. He decided he should obviously teach himself the Japanese ABC first. He at once discovered that they have two A’s: あ and ア. That was to be expected, we have two A’s too: A and a. He then looked for B. No B. No b, either. Damn it. What about C? Nothing. What a language! No ABC! He gave up. That was to be expected too.
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Surely that's just a matter of neglecting that area though? I mean you just learn the kanji, readings and you're done.
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What I find most difficult about Japanese is the multiple ways of saying one thing and the subtle differences that mean that if you use one version it is "incorrect" even if it would seem to be correct. Sometimes there is apparently no reason for this and you just have to memorise it.
An example would be conditionals. As a beginner you may just learn that there are multiple ways to say "if". Seems easy enough. But then later on you find out that actually you can't use certain ones for certain types of sentences.
Remembering these subtle rules is bad enough when writing, but to apply them while speaking seems almost impossible.
Disclaimer: Japanese is the first foreign language I have (seriously) attempted to learn. I expect that this sort of thing exists for other languages too.
Edited: 2013-09-23, 4:45 am
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A really funky part of living in Japan is using the Katakana borrowed words. On the surface, these items are great because they are really just cognates borrowed, they are easily learned, and easily remembered. However, I can't help but feel strange when I use these items in daily speech here. I've chatted with a few coworkers here about this (language teachers) and there seems to be agreement with the awkward nature of using these items. It is likely a socio-cultural affective element of language use. I imagine I would feel just as awkward if I returned to North American and walked around referring to kareoke with a correct Japanese pronunciation.
On a possibly related tangent, I notice that some of my students who can pronounce English quite well will often revert to the Katakana style epenthesis (adding vowels to break up consonant clusters, for example textbook becomes tekusutobuku) when speaking in English with an audience of Japanese peers. I wonder if a similar process is taking place for them; the awkwardness of using a cognate to an item that already exists in the L1 and is produced quite differently.
Brains.